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Grapevine
Canyon is located in the very southern tip of Nevada not far from the casino
town of Laughlin. The rugged canyon lies six miles due west of the Colorado River,
with the mouth of the canyon roughly facing east.
As the largest petroglyph
site in southern Nevada, it has had ceremonial significance to the Mojave and
other tribes for thousands of years.
|
Laughlin,
Nevada along the Colorado River with Spirit Mountain in the distance to the
northwest. |
Three-and-a-half
miles to the northwest of the canyon, Spirit Mountain (elevation 5,639 ft.) dominates
the landscape. Also known as Avikwa'ame by Yuman speakers, this peak has
great mythic and cosmological importance. It was, in fact, the place where the
world was created.
"For
the Yuman-speaking inhabitants of the Colorado River region, no location was more
sacred than Avikwa'ame, or Spirit Mountain, which we call Newberry Peak,
in southernmost Nevada. According to the Mojave creation myth, the oldest spirit
was Matavilya, made from the mating of Earth and Sky. Matavilya had two
sons, Mastamho and Kaatar, and a daughter, Frog. Matavilya
committed an unwitting indecency that offended his daughter, who then killed them.
Mastamho directed the cremation and mourning ceremony for his father and, when
completed, strode up the Colorado River Valley. When he got to the top Mastamho
created the river by plunging a cane of breath and spittle into the earth, allowing
the river to pour forth. Riding a canoe down the waters to the ocean, he created
the wide river bottom by twisting and turning the boat. He returned from the ocean
with his people, the Mojave, taking them in his arms to the northern end of Mojave
country. There he piled up earth, creating the mountain Avlkwa'ame, and built
himself a house on it. There too Mastamho plotted the death of Sky-Rattlesnake,
an evil spirit and the source of dark powers. Mastamho killed Sky-Rattlesnake
by cutting off his head, with his spilt blood becoming noxious insects. Mastamho
then gave land to the different tribes and taught them to farm. Finally, Mastamho
turned himself into a fish-eagle and flew off into oblivion." [David S. Whitley,
A Guide to Rock Art Sites: Southern California and Southern Nevada (Missoula,
Montana: Mountain Press Publishing Company, 1996), p. 128]
About
185 miles due south of Spirit
Mountain (114.43 W. longitude) is Pilot Knob (114.75 W. longitude; elevation
only 874 ft.). Ancient
tribes traditionally made pilgrimages upon a huge network of interconnected trails
found in the low desert along the Colorado River. One such pilgrimage called the
keruk is performed even today by tribes such as the Mohave, Yuma, Cocopa,
and Maricopa. This four-day trek to Avikwa’ame, the sacred mountain in the north,
is performed to celebrate the cosmogony.
“The
route ran from Pilot Knob, or Avikwal [near Yuma, Arizona], the spirit
house where the dead dwell at the southern end of the river, to Avikwa’ame, or
Spirit Mountain, where the Earth was created, in the north. This pilgrimage was
intended to honor the creation, and ritually retrace the path of Mastamho in his
mythic adventures.” [Whitley,
A Guide to Rock Art Sites, p. 124-125.]
Here
we find a north-south dichotomy similar to that found along the Nile
in Egypt with the “Mound of Creation” (i.e., Heliopolis) located to the north.
Atop Avikwa’ame, legends say, was a great house name Aha-avulypo, or literally
“Dark Round House.” The north-south road itself was named Kwatcan, the
“first trail to the homeland.” The Hopi word for “track” is kuku’at, but
the word for “grandfather” is the near homophone kwa’at. Perhaps the suffix
-can is a variant of “ka,” part of the word kachina, a sprit
messenger. Thus, the intended meaning of Kwatcan is either “spirits of the track”
or “spirits of the grandfathers.”
Midway on this spirit road between the
sacred mountain of the north and the mouth of the Colorado River are earth sculptures
known as geoglyphs
(also called intaglios) found on the 33rd degree of north latitude. Located about
15 miles north of Blythe, California, these geoglyphs together with other cairns,
stone circles, and cleared dance paths may be ritually associated with this great
north-south road.
Spirit Mountain (35.17 N. latitude) is, incidentally,
about 170 miles due west of the sacred mountain of the Hopi called Humphreys Peak
(35.20 N. latitude; elevation 12,633 ft.).
In Grapevine Canyon the designs
carved into the heavily patinated granite cliffs and boulders are predominantly
abstract: geometric forms, nets, grids, zigzags, shields, spirals, concentric
circles, meandering lines and dots, parallel lines, starbursts, and odd I-shaped
or H-shaped forms. I did, however, occasionally find the engravings of a zoomorph
(animal form) such as deer or bighorn sheep, and that of snakes. Also stylized
anthropomorphs (human forms) appear among the welter of images sometimes densely
superimposed as on a palimpsest.
Grapevine
Canyon may be the ritual location where shamans on a vision quest entered
mythic space-time to reenact the cosmic creation. (Read this fine article
by Paul Devereux on the Native American practice of the vision quest.) The site
might also have served as a summer solstice observation point, though further
research is needed to verify this. At any rate, the petroglyphs found here are
not mere doodles or idle recreation. On the contrary, these labor-intensive carvings
undoubtedly represent the visionary re-creation of mythical or otherworldly
dimensions. We may never fully know their true meanings.
|
Deeply
incised geometric petroglyphs. |
|
Near
the mouth of the canyon looking west. |
|
Looking
east from the mouth of the canyon toward the Colorado River and mountains
on eastern bank. |
|
Tripartite
icon faces east. (Rising of Orion's belt?) Also snake above and crude zoomorph
below. |
|
Another
triadic image isolated high on canyon wall (feathers?). |
|
Densely
packed, geometric images superimposed. Note star icon (outlined cross) at lower
left of large rectangle near center of photo. |
|
Stairstep
motif, possibly forming a double Tau. Zigzags
inside rectangle (lower left), T-shape inside fainter pyramid (upper right). |
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Parallel
lines inside geometric patterns. |
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Meandering
dots and lines, bear claws (center and lower right). Atlatl, a flat wooden
stick for throwing a spear (extreme left-center). |
|
Circular
shield high on cliff face, possibly a solar-lunar calendar. Outer concentric
circle has 13 lines. Upper portion has two rows of 6 parallel lines each.
(Or does the upper row have 13? You decide.) |
|
Somewhat
rare zoomorphs, possibly elk or deer. |
|
Anthropomorph
with rectangular body and faint suggestion of arms and legs. To left, opposing
arrowheads (warfare?) inside rectangle. To right, circles, bighorn sheep, and
starburst. |
|
Small
ceremonial cave, located on the north side of the mouth of the canyon. |
|
Outside
"shaman's cave." Parallel lines, concentric circles, meanders, etc. |
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Inside
cave looking eastward. |
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Inside
cave: snake, river, or...? |
|
Heavily
incised boulder outside ceremonial cave. In the foreground at left is a jimsonweed
(Datura
wrightii), which abounds in the wash that runs through the canyon.
This hallucinogenic plant may explain the plethora of so-called entoptic designs.
These
geometric luminous patterns are generated by the optic nervous system, frequently
during the initial stages of altered states of consciousness. Entoptic images
can also occur during a migraine headache, or by simply staring at the sun
for a moment and then closing the eyes. |
|
The
"I-beam" (above) may
represent two Tau icons combined. This south-facing
star (below) perhaps represents Sirius, the brightest star in the sky. (See
similar sidereal shape at Palatki Ruin, over 150 miles
to the east.) |
